Hello, How good is the Golden Oriole (Paul Chen)?

[Eric Lamers]

I`m thinking about buying one....maybe, and would like to here some input about this sword.
I want it for display and to look and feel as real as possible, because the real stuf is to expensive , i`m not an expert but i no how to handel a sword.

[Dwight Pilkilton]

I have a Golden, in fact it is my 3rd. one as the first two were sent back due to problems with fatal flaws in the temperline and one was just too straight. Anyway I cut my Tsuka down to 10.5 inches and re tied the handle and changed the Tsuba out. I am very pleased with this sword, I have cut 6 beach mats at one time with no problem. Do I use it excuslively...no..I use a Nihonto for all my Kata work..the difference is night and day in just the way the two swords feel. The chen is well...its a "Honda" economical and works everytime....but its not a 911S. I personally think the goldens are a good buy in an entry level sword...you are getting exactly what you are paying for and a little more....in this day and time that is a good trick. I wouldnt sell mine..I like it.

Hope this helps
Dwight P

[BlairLowe]

Decent forged katana. Long tsuka and long blade but not as thick or wide as Musashi. More in dimensions other than length to shinto and practical katana.
Looks real nice. Nice theme/motif.

[Chris Holzman]

Originally posted by BlairLowe
Decent forged katana. Long tsuka and long blade but not as thick or wide as Musashi. More in dimensions other than length to shinto and practical katana.
Looks real nice. Nice theme/motif.

I have an Oriole, as well as a 4th Gen PK..

The oriole I purchased used from Justin Speyer here on the forum. The PK came new from 888knivesrus.com
I don't know how long Justin had the oriole, but the number 28 is cut into the nakago, along with a mei that looks hand carved rather than stamped, I'm guessing its one of the first ones, but then again, the 28 could be 'inspected by 28' or something.

Its nagasa is within 1/16th of an inch equal with the PK, though it has just a touch more profile taper than the PK, as well as a tiny bit of distal taper that the PK lacks. It is also straighter than the PK, with about half as much sori. The fittings, tuskamaki, say, and habaki to saya fit are light years better in the oriole, although there is something on one side of the saya wall that has burnished a spot on the blade. The oriole is also a water quenched blade where the PK appears to be an oil quench. The balance of the Oriole is much better than the PK. ( I am in the process of refitting the PK with a slightly longer tsuka, which is almost the lengh of the oriole tsuka, and it still hasn't helped the PK feel like anything less of a sharpened crowbar.)

now, the downsides to the oriole. The tsuka still feels like a big rectangular block that has had the corners rounded off, and lacks any taper itself. It does follow the curve of the blade just a bit better than the PK tsuka did though. The tsuba needed some peening work to tighten up so that it didn't rattle and wiggle. The fuchi was a bit loose on the tsuka core, though a small shim has fixed that. the tsuka core has also apparently shrunk or was not cut at quite the right length to put pressure on the seppa and tsuba against the habaki, so a small shim under the fuchi was needed to correct this. Rightfully, i should have replaced the seppa, but it was just easier to shim under the fuchi at the moment. Also, while the 'lacquer' was really nice on the pk, the oriole had some defects in the finish which Justin indicated it had been shipped with to him originally. This doesn't suprise me, as I've stripped the PK saya down, and it appears to have had sort of gloss plastic coating, rather than what is most definitely some form of aerosol lacquer and primer combination like the oriole. I've painted several saya with automotive lacquer and primer, with great results, however, everything has to be perfect or the finish will degrade miserably.

Anyway, all that said, I would absolutely recommend the golden oriole, as long as you get a good one. I'd certainly rather have it than a PK, though honestly, the practical plus might be a better deal cost wise unless you just specifically like the golden oriole fittings.

chris

[Jeff Ellis]

Originally posted by Chris Holzman



I have an Oriole, as well as a 4th Gen PK..

The oriole I purchased used from Justin Speyer here on the forum. The PK came new from 888knivesrus.com
I don't know how long Justin had the oriole, but the number 28 is cut into the nakago, along with a mei that looks hand carved rather than stamped, I'm guessing its one of the first ones, but then again, the 28 could be 'inspected by 28' or something.

Its nagasa is within 1/16th of an inch equal with the PK, though it has just a touch more profile taper than the PK, as well as a tiny bit of distal taper that the PK lacks. It is also straighter than the PK, with about half as much sori. The fittings, tuskamaki, say, and habaki to saya fit are light years better in the oriole, although there is something on one side of the saya wall that has burnished a spot on the blade. The oriole is also a water quenched blade where the PK appears to be an oil quench. The balance of the Oriole is much better than the PK. ( I am in the process of refitting the PK with a slightly longer tsuka, which is almost the lengh of the oriole tsuka, and it still hasn't helped the PK feel like anything less of a sharpened crowbar.)

now, the downsides to the oriole. The tsuka still feels like a big rectangular block that has had the corners rounded off, and lacks any taper itself. It does follow the curve of the blade just a bit better than the PK tsuka did though. The tsuba needed some peening work to tighten up so that it didn't rattle and wiggle. The fuchi was a bit loose on the tsuka core, though a small shim has fixed that. the tsuka core has also apparently shrunk or was not cut at quite the right length to put pressure on the seppa and tsuba against the habaki, so a small shim under the fuchi was needed to correct this. Rightfully, i should have replaced the seppa, but it was just easier to shim under the fuchi at the moment. Also, while the 'lacquer' was really nice on the pk, the oriole had some defects in the finish which Justin indicated it had been shipped with to him originally. This doesn't suprise me, as I've stripped the PK saya down, and it appears to have had sort of gloss plastic coating, rather than what is most definitely some form of aerosol lacquer and primer combination like the oriole. I've painted several saya with automotive lacquer and primer, with great results, however, everything has to be perfect or the finish will degrade miserably.

Anyway, all that said, I would absolutely recommend the golden oriole, as long as you get a good one. I'd certainly rather have it than a PK, though honestly, the practical plus might be a better deal cost wise unless you just specifically like the golden oriole fittings.

chris

the numbering is cool. look at the other parts of the sword, like just intide the saya mouth, and inside the nakago-ana of the tsuka. if it's anything like my shinto, they used the number 28 to keep the sword parts together.

[Chris Holzman]

Originally posted by Jeff Ellis


the numbering is cool. look at the other parts of the sword, like just intide the saya mouth, and inside the nakago-ana of the tsuka. if it's anything like my shinto, they used the number 28 to keep the sword parts together.

Yeah, its there just inside the saya as well. I wonder if its actually a serial number, or number 28 at that month, or what. I also wonder at the fact that it really does look on this piece like the mei is hand carved with chisels rather than stamped. I've been fortunate enough to handle a couple gendaito, and it really looks similar in the way the strokes are carved, rather than machineish.

Shrug, that said, its still just a factory piece. Now when I get some time, I might try to track down whatever is inside the saya causing the burnishing on the ji surface.

Chris

[B, Reese]

Originally posted by Eric Lamers
I`m thinking about buying one....maybe, and would like to here some input about this sword.
I want it for display and to look and feel as real as possible, because the real stuf is to expensive , i`m not an expert but i no how to handel a sword.

I have own several Chen Kats for sometime. I like the Oriole, much better than the Shinto...but I prefer the beefier Musashi. The Oriole is lighter, but the one I have performs sastisfactory in light cutting. But it was hand picked from several. If you get a good Chen Kat, it is a lot of bang for the buck.

[Eric Lamers]

Thanks for all the info guys, it helps, now i hope i`ll get a flawless sword when i order it, it costs me 420 pound but the euro stands good at the moment