Christmas Dirk

[Dale Seago]

A Christmas gift I received last week -- not a modern piece of formal-wear masculine jewelry, but a clansman's fighting dirk. Its name is Tartmhor ("thirsty, parched" in Gaidhlig). Overall length is 18 & 1/4 inches. Blade length is 13 & 1/4 inches from point to the bottom of the brass ferrule; width at ferrule 1 & 3/8 inches; 5 & 1/4 inch false edge.

[Dale Seago]

Detail of the handle:

[Dale Seago]

"Targe face" motif on pommel:

[Jay Barron]

Gorgeous Dale! Who made it?

[Dale Seago]

Originally posted by Jay Barron
Who made it?

I knew someone was bound to ask.

Like all the Jacobite-era dirks which were made from worn out or otherwise recycled sword blades, the blade and the handle on this one were made by different people.

The blade is hand-forged, differentially heat-treated 5160 carbon steel made by a smith who owed me a favor. I gave it an "aged" appearance by applying a light coat of gun bluing and then taking some steel wool with a little mineral oil on it and dipping it into some diatomaceous earth and hand-rubbing the blade to get that grey, "old"-looking patina.

The handle is ebony, with the ferrule and pommel cap of cast brass. It was made by, um, someone on this Forum.

It's interesting what camera angle does to perspective -- the blade actually looks (and is) longer in proportion to the handle than it appears to be in the photo. And the entire handle, from bottom tips of the ferrule to top of the pommel cap, is only 5 inches in length, with the grip part (between the haunches and where the pommel begins to flare out) being just a hair under 2 & 1/2 inches long. And the haunches at their widest point (the top) are only 1 & 5/8 inches across.

I don't have pics yet of the sheath, but there is one -- of molded leather coming up slightly onto the haunches, and with a belt loop attached by a D-ring through the top part of the back seam.

Overall I'm very, very happy with this piece.

[David White]

Hi Dale-

I know who! His work just keeps getting better, I'm envious

dave

[Dale Seago]

David -- yes, you do know who, he lives in your state.

I gave it an "aged" appearance by applying a light coat of gun bluing and then taking some steel wool with a little mineral oil on it and dipping it into some diatomaceous earth and hand-rubbing the blade to get that grey, "old"-looking patina.

I forgot to mention that before doing that, I put some actual bloodstains on the blade: rubbed it with a raw beefsteak and let it "set" for a day. Carbon steel like this will stain very quickly.

Looks just the way I want it now. I can only think of one (very minor) thing that could have made it better, and it's too late for that: "Period" dirks typically had the ferrule snugly up against the bottom of the knotwork carving. My bad, I'd thought of mentioning it to the handle maker but forgot to do it. But you can tell I'm happy with it: This shot was taken just as I was about to lay it down on the plaid to be photographed:

[A. Ko]

Sweet... I love the knotwork!

[James Taylor]

Dale tricked me! He said he wanted a "not-work handle", and that sounded right up my alley. When I realized what he really wanted, it was too late to back out.

[Henrik Bjoern Boegh]

You're a lucky man...

[Alexander McCracken]

JT,

Cudos on another excellent piece. As a proud owner of
a Taylor dirk, I can vouch that his work is top-rate, and
would recommend him to anyone looking for a period-
correct Highland weapon. James, as I've said before,
you really need to get into the dirk making business.
Your stuff is just that good.

Congratulations Dale.

Alex

[Dale Seago]

Originally posted by Alexander McCracken
James, as I've said before, you really need to get into the dirk making business. Your stuff is just that good.

I couldn't agree more. Patrick Tougher from Scottish Sword & Shield really liked the handle James did on "Hamish", which I showed him at the Pleasanton Games, and commented that soon he'll REALLY be good. Personally, I'd say he's about there. James has a bit more figured out about blades these days, too.

I really like his "aggressive" knotwork style, it's very 1700s. Maybe we should talk with him & Adrian about a "stock" (e.g., more or less standardized) design for the SFI Store, hmmm?? I think it's time he made some decent money on something he clearly so loves doing, and you KNOW there's a market for this kind of craftsmanship.

[Alexander McCracken]

Hi Dale,

How long is the grip portion of your weapon? Four and a half/
five inches judging by blade/overall length? It looks a wee bit
smaller than the one JT did for me. We were both amazed
at how small (though historically accurate) the Vince Evans
dirk was that I showed James when we met at Williamsburg.

JT,

I agree with Dale. You need to go into business, if only
part-time. There just aren't enough quality dirk-makers out
there, and I know several people off the top of my head that
would be interested in a Taylor dirk.

Alex

[Dale Seago]

Originally posted by Alexander McCracken
How long is the grip portion of your weapon? Four and a half/
five inches judging by blade/overall length? It looks a wee bit
smaller than the one JT did for me. We were both amazed
at how small (though historically accurate) the Vince Evans
dirk was that I showed James when we met at Williamsburg.

The handle is 5 inches in total length -- that's measuring from the bottom tips of the curved ferrule to the top of the pommel cap (I'm not counting the tang nut in the measurement). Could've been a wee bit shorter yet had the ferrule been all the way up against the points of the knotwork.

The actual grip area, between the top of the haunches and where the pommel begins to flare out, is a fraction under 2 & 1/2 inches. If you take a look at the photo above where I've just drawn it with an expression of childish delight on my face, you'll get a better idea of the size in proportion to my hand: I'm holding it with my index finger wedged in against the top of the haunch and my ring finger on the flare of the pommel, right against the edge of the pommel cap.

The blade, typical of antique backswords I've seen, is 1 & 3/8 inches wide at the haunches and about 3/16 inches thick. Has a very nice distal taper the length of the false edge (5 & 1/4 inches), and the POB is about 3/4 inch out from the ferrule.

Can't really describe how it feels in the hand, except to say it's wonderful. Superbly balanced yet substantial. . .

[James Taylor]

Dale and Alex, thanks for the compliments, but I really just don't have the time to make dirks commercially- but, I thank you for the opportunities/motivation you gave me to experiment and learn (I need pressure and deadlines sometimes to make me tackle some projects) and for the encouragement. I'm still an amateur with a very long way to go, and am continually impressed with the work of the real craftsmen like Vince Evans and his wife ( ye gods, how do they do this stuff so well!?) whenever I attempt to make something.

I've got so many projects on my list right now- got to make molds and cast buttons for the 76th Regiment of Foot, make reproduction badric tips and baldric buckles for the 76th, make up some pairs of kilt hose, etc., etc.. This reenactment stuff is pretty labor/time intensive!

My friend, Josiah Hunter, and I just got our regimental jackets from Weeping Heart Trade Company (Julie is a sweetheart!), and we led the Portsmouth Olde Towne Scottish Walk yesterday (started it with our musket fire, by the way). And, I think we looked grand in our 76th Regiment of Foot uniforms- if I do say so meself!

So, Dave and Alex, start saving your pennies for your regimentals! Let's shoot for a recruiting party reenactment at the Williamsburg Scottish Festival and the Richmond Scottish Festival and at the "Week After Saint Patricks Day Block Party" (in Richmond) this coming year, okay? And, there's the reenactment of the Battle of Green Springs at Endview Plantation, "Under the Redcoat" event at Colonial Williamsburg, and the Victory Celebration at Yorktown, etc.!

And, anyone else in the Virginia area who is interested in joining the 76th, give me a holler. We're just starting out- you can get in on the ground floor.

Yours, aye.
James Taylor

[Dale Seago]

Here's a size comparison with James' earlier piece, "Big Hamish".

Note that there's only a half-inch difference in blade length between the two: the blade really "sets the parameters" for handle size and proportions.

Tartmhor is more historically correct, for both blade width (assuming a cut-down backsword blade) and overall size/length. Per Forman's booklet The Scottish Dirk, the "average" dirk carried during The Forty-Five was generally about 18 inches in length from top of pommel to point.

[Dale Seago]

And here's Tartmhor with my two Tinker Pearce dirks. One of the three is my favorite, and you're welcome to guess at which it is if you like. . .

[Jay Barron]

Dale can you post a pic of the back of the sheath? I'd really like to see that belt loop and D-ring.

[Dale Seago]

Dang. Don't have one, so maybe later.

Simple D-shaped ring though, with the straight part of the D on the belt loop and the curved part through the leather of the top part of the backseam (this was also typical by The Forty-Five). The D-ring gives a lot more freedom of movement and positioning to the dirk as you wear it -- easy to draw from different angles, adjust the position without taking it off if you sit down, etc. James seems to have hand-made this one from iron.

[Jay Barron]

Thanks for the info, Dale. Do you know if this form of attatchment would have been common earlier than the Forty-Five?

[Arik Estus]

Hi Jay,
From all I have read, yes. A "D" ring or plain round ring was used. Also small chains. And more common was a simple length of leather thru holes in the back of the scabbard and tied around the belt.

Pictures/paintings dont really show much. The occasional strap or thryst into a belt. But not much detail on the back.

[Alexander McCracken]

Hi JT!

Originally posted by James Taylor


Dale and Alex, thanks for the compliments, but I really
ust don't have the time to make dirks commercially-
but, I thank you for the opportunities/motivation you
gave me to experiment and learn (I need pressure and
deadlines sometimes to make me tackle some projects)
and for the encouragement. I'm still an amateur with a
very long way to go, and am continually impressed with
the work of the real craftsmen like Vince Evans and his
wife ( ye gods, how do they do this stuff so well!?)
whenever I attempt to make something.

Well, I hope that someday you find the time to start crafting
for profit, because you'd have a ready made customer base.
Your stuff is just great! Maybe you ought to consider doing
a few pieces a year for a start, if only for vacation money?
That would certainly lessen the pressure of doing it fulltime.

Originally posted by James Taylor


I've got so many projects on my list right now- got to
make molds and cast buttons for the 76th Regiment of
Foot, make reproduction badric tips and baldric buckles
for the 76th, make up some pairs of kilt hose, etc., etc.
This reenactment stuff is pretty labor/time intensive!

My friend, Josiah Hunter, and I just got our regimental
jackets from Weeping Heart Trade Company (Julie is a
sweetheart!), and we led the Portsmouth Olde Towne
Scottish Walk yesterday (started it with our musket fire,
by the way). And, I think we looked grand in our 76th
Regiment of Foot uniforms- if I do say so meself!

I completely understand about time constraints. The 76th is
definately going to take up time, but in a good way! Do you
have any pictures of the new jackets/lace/accoutrements that
you can post or send? Also, what are your impressions on the
quality of work done by WH? I've got the red for the jacket, so
all I'd need would be buttons and lace mostly. I assume
Julie would add the green facings and make the waistcoat?
How much did the whole rig cost?

Originally posted by James Taylor


So, Dave and Alex, start saving your pennies for your
regimentals! Let's shoot for a recruiting party
reenactment at the Williamsburg Scottish Festival and
the Richmond Scottish Festival and at the "Week After
Saint Patricks Day Block Party" (in Richmond) this coming
year, okay? And, there's the reenactment of the Battle of
Green Springs at Endview Plantation, "Under the Redcoat"
event at Colonial Williamsburg, and the Victory Celebration
at Yorktown, etc.!

I'm trying to! With Lorna out of work I'm no longer spending
money like a drunken lottery winner, but I DO have plans to
get my 76th kit together, I HOPE by this summer at the latest.
Can you post dates for the events above? I THINK UTRD is
the last weekend in June, but I don't know about the other
ones?

BTW. As I understand it, Mac is still interested in putting together
a Sgt-Major's kit for the 76th. Have you found out anything more
about what all went into that rank's uniform? The only thing I
can think of would be the swagger stick, but I don't know
what the rank would look like or anything!

Alex

[Dale Seago]

Originally posted by Jay Barron
Dale can you post a pic of the back of the sheath? I'd really like to see that belt loop and D-ring.

Okay, got this taken last night in the dojo.

James left a little extra leather at the top of the backseam to accommodate the hole for the D-ring; if you look closely you can also see that he reinforced it with extra stitching along the outer edge. The ring, as mentioned earlier, appears to be hand-wrought iron; the belt-loop is copper-riveted.

Oh, and that reddish tinge to the ebony is neither a trick of the light nor your imagination, but a natural feature of the wood. In most light it simply looks black, but there really is an almost dried-blood reddish-brown in there which seems to sort of look crusted in the rougher-finished spaces between the high-relief knotwork, and also to sort of "glow through" the more smoothly finished areas as well when the light is right. It's one of the reasons I named the dirk Tartmhor.


Anyway, without further ado, here's the pic:

[Dale Seago]

Also, just to give everyone a "sense of proportion" regarding the overall size and especially the size of the handle, check this one out.

As you'll see, the handle is definitely not overly large. It feels perfect for my hand.